Running and leaking issues

[VirtualChris]

HELP. This is driving me insane. OK, not quite insane. Yet.

Bought my 2001 Vulcan 500 last spring (May, 2012) and rode about 2000 miles on it without ever needing a 2nd crank. Put it up for the winter in December (I live in Michigan). Filled the tank, put Seafom, covered it, put in garage on a carpet. I ran it about once per month all winter (December, Jan, Feb and March). When I got it out last week, it ran for about 10-20 seconds, stalled and would not start.

After reading a lot and speaking with some people, I removed the carbs. Cleaned them up. They did not look too bad. The floats are plastic, but seemed fine and the pins seemed fine also.

After putting them back on tonight, it started right up. I rode around for maybe 5-10 minutes and it seemed fine. Let it sit while I did something else and when I came back to it, there was a puddle of gas on the floor. I started it again and was going to take it out for a few minutes, but it stalled and will not start. Same exact issue as last week. It cranks, but does not catch. Electrical seems fine, spark tests good.

The leak is coming from the air box behind the carb.

Any ideas? Anybody? Bueller?

Here is a brief video of the leak/start attempt.
http://youtu.be/S94DQOw5vVQ

[Triangles]

when you put the carbs back together the float valves are not seating for some reason. Check to make sure you put them back together right. What is happening is the fuel is overflowing the float bowl(s) and the gas is running out the intake into the air box. It may also be leaking into the engine essentially flooding it (which is why it won't start) and likely washing down the cylinder walls and into your oil. Check your oil level. If you suspect some of the gas has gotten into the oil. You really should change the oil, not worth risking your engine.

It sounds like you have two problems:

#1 your fuel valve is not working. It has a vacuum operated shut off. Fuel should not flow to the carbs when the engine is off. Unless you mistakenly left the fuel valve on prime "PRI".

#2 one or more of your float valves is not seating properly causing your dangerous gas leak.

Once you've fixed #2 check if your oil has been diluted by gasoline and change it if it has. It should go without saying that gasoline is a very poor lubricant. Then if you haven't already, fix that gas tank valve!

[VirtualChris]

#1 sounds like a very likely culprit. The gas line continued to flow even when it was disconnected from the carbs.

If the fuel valve is indeed not working, could that cause everything? Or do you suspect the floats also? Are there instructions on replacing the fuel valve?

Thanks so much!

[Triangles]

The float valve is enough to stop gas flowing from the tank. The vacuum fuel tank valve is a secondary safety to stop fuel flow in the event of a float valve failure. I did forget to mention, On another vehicle I worked on when I put the carb back together the float valve did not seal after I put the carb back together. I tapped the side of the carb and the float valve sealed. I don't know if this is applicable to our bikes. I've had my carbs apart countless times and never a problem with a float valve.

Another benefit of the vacuum shut off on the gas tank valve is that when the bike sits the carbs will dry out instead of keep having more fuel continue to gum up the carbs as the fuel in the carbs evaporates. In other words it helps keep your carbs from getting as gummed up during storage.

Replacement valves are expensive. If you search on line you can find a "rebuild kit" for your fuel valve. It's basically new diaphrams/gaskets. Look at the parts fiche for an exploded view of the fuel valve and it should be straight forward to figure out. If in doubt, a local shop should be able to do it for you fairly cheap.

That reminds me I need to order one for my '94. it leaks fuel out the valve itself when I flip to/from reserve.

[VirtualChris]

The fuel valve - I assume is this: http://www.bikebandit.com/k-l-fuel-petc ... t?m=149292

I guess I will replace that, take apart the carb again and perhaps replace the float pins.

[Triangles]

Yep that's the fuel valve rebuild kit. I thought they were more about $20 though, $35 seems high. I guess it has been a while since i've priced them out. There will be xtra parts since they make the kit to fit several different models.

As for your float valve, you can use a bit of tubing on the float bowl drain bent back up above the float bowl to check your float bowl level. This would be a good check once you're done to make sure you've fixed it. If you don't already have one I'd highly recommend getting a Kawasaki service manual. They describe all this in pretty good detail. I'd send you the relevant information but my manual is not accessible.

[VirtualChris]

I am up and running. Rode my Vulcan to work today for the first time this year.

Purchased new float pins and replaced the old ones, even though they looked fine.
Purchased fuel valve petcock rebuild assembly. Replaced the spring and gaskets from the kit.

Still have an issue with the carb not sitting far enough back into the boot and still have to straighten that out, but I am happy.

Thanks for your help!

[Triangles]

Glad you got it all sorted out!

[VirtualChris]

Postscript.

Rode to work 3 times last week.
Left the lights on one evening for a few hours and it was dead. Jump started it and put it on the trickle charger overnight.
Worked on the carbs...redoing the brackets and getting it to sit further back into the boots. Did not remove the carbs.
Will not start.
I do not own a battery tester, but took it to the place I bought it and they tested it. They said it was fine and fully charged.

Very frustrated. Here is what it is doing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTLfxdJ1Yw4

Could this still be the battery? I never replaced the plugs, but...it just worked last week.



Any thoughts?

[Triangles]

If you were monkeying with the carbs I will assume you drained all the fuel out of them? If so did you prime the carbs? ie. turn fuel lever to "PRI" wait 20-30 seconds for fuel to fill the carbs. The first gen vulcan500's had no "PRI" position on the gas valve which makes it a pain when the carbs are dry. When I have this problem, I simply pull a vacuum line off each carb and give them a squirt of carb cleaner or starting fluid, put the vacuum line back on and she always fires right up. Try that, it sounds like you're not getting any fuel.

[VirtualChris]

I did not drain the carbs. I only removed the rear clamps and got the carbs to sit further back in the boots. No gas leaked, so I didn't worry about it.

The vacuum line is certainly not kinked or anything (I checked that), but I didn't remove them. I will remove it and re-attach as well as spray some carb cleaner on the spot where the line attaches.

[Triangles]

I always think of it as: to have a bang you need fuel and spark. Then try to figure out which I do not have. We covered fuel, now do we have spark? You could try to pull a spark plug out and crank with part of the plug touching the engine to see if your plugs are firing. This practice is usually discouraged because it is hard on your ignition components, you can end up shocking yourself, put arc marks on your engine where the plug is touching it, or start a fire. Use your best judgement. Most autoparts stores do sell a device that you can hook between the plug and wire that will show a visual spark. These are much safer but I've always been too cheap to buy one.

[VirtualChris]

It starts and runs great when warm. It will not start at all when cold.

Choke fully open. Cranks but does not catch. Put it in the sun for a while and starts right up & runs fine.