change to 17/38 front/rear sprockets

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Triangles
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change to 17/38 front/rear sprockets

Postby Triangles » Sun Nov 27, 2011 4:44 am

This How-To will be very brief. This will work for both cast wheels (EN500A) and spoke wheels (EN500C). Ask away if you have questions.

Parts needed:
-17 tooth front sprocket.
-Rear "damper - hub" for an early Ninja 500. I used a hub from a '90 model year, I believe a '93 and earlier will work, but you'll have to check the parts fiche to see if it's the same as the '90.
-Rubber dampers for the hub from a EN500A or Early Ninja 500. You could shave off the fingers from your EN500C dampers and use them, but then you cannot go back unless you buy some new dampers.
-38 tooth rear sprocket for a '90 Ninja 500.
-108 link chain (110 is stock)
-Rivet master link

Tools needed:
-Various sockets and wrenches to remove and install rear wheel.
-Motion pro chain break tool (doesn't have to be this specific tool but it works good)
-Grinder w/cutoff wheel or dremel to cut old chain.

Step 1 front sprocket:
Follow the instructions in your service manual to remove old and install new 17t front sprocket. Leave the cover off so you can install the new chain later.

Step 2 Disassembly:
-Jack rear wheel off ground
-Remove rear wheel, plastic chain guard, and cut old chain off.

Step 3 Reassembly:
-insert "new" or modified rubber dampers in rear wheel
-bolt new 38t rear sprocket to the Ninja 500 hub
-slide hub over dampers onto wheel
-using the spacers etc from the original configuration, reinstall the wheel on the axle.

Step 4 install new 108 link chain:
I used an EK 520SRX 108 link chain. The chain comes with a clip master link. I've never trusted these and want to do it right by using a rivet master link. You will have to order a rivet master link in addition to your chain and buy or borrow a chain break/press tool. Watch the video below for how to use the rivet tool and install a rivet master link.


Step 5 wrap up:
-If you haven't already, reinstall front sprocket cover.
-reinstall plastic chain guard
-Adjust your chain tension as you would when it was stock.
-Double check you didn't forget to install/adjust anything.

Conclusion:
It should look something like this. If you look closely you can see the riveted master link:
Image

This will give you the tallest possible gearing that I am aware of. It will spread out the gears and you will have to down shift more often than before to avoid lugging the engine. I find these characteristics desirable in a cruiser especially if you are doing any long distance high speed riding. In theory you might even see a few xtra MPG's. If you want to accelerate thru the gears as fast as possible this is the opposite of what you would want to do. For more information read this thread from when I was developing this. If somebody figures out which model years have the same parts and the 1990 model I'll update this How-To.

As always, use this guide at your own risk.
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