Hopefully the photo shows up

[White Jesse]

Got her for just 700. Put a street racer EBC clutch, 15% stiffer springs, and new cable and she was ready to rock. Next time I'm in the mountains I'll bring my phone for a better picture. Really lovely bike!
Oh I bought her in January or December or something if you're wondering about the price.

[Triangles]

Someone got a steal of a deal!!!

Not sure what the clutch stuff is gonna do for you. I popped a wheelie with my factory clutch.

[White Jesse]

The clutch was extremely weak, but to be honest I'm pretty sure it was mostly the cable now not the actual disc. (Because the the disc came in the mail a few days before the cable and I installed them right away) the new one seems really good though.


Also thanks, I was quite happy with the price. Had just under 9,000 miles too. Really crazy deal. So glad I didn't end up getting this vintage 2 stroke I was eying before saw this bike and sent him an offer.



Camera is burry but I did remember to snap a photo up there but idk why I didn't get the mountains in the background. Next time.

[White Jesse]

Also wow, I haven't even tried with the forward controls I'm impressed. I feel like I can corner pretty quick with her, but I haven't even tried to wheelie. Would be so damn cool though. Cruisers wheeling looks the coolest, no questions.

[Triangles]

My Wheelie was unintentional. I had run out of gas waiting for a left turn arrow about 7-8 cars back with a line of cars behind me. It stalled right as the green arrow came on. I switched to reserve and was cranking to start. I didn't realize I had slowly opened the throttle more and more as it was cranking and it was at WOT when the engine started stumbling to life. Not realizing this I started letting out on the clutch to go. As soon as I did, the engine got full gas causing me to lose grip of the clutch lever and I just held on for dear life. I'm sure the front wheel only came up about 6 inches to a foot but it was one of those experiences that requires an underwear change.

[White Jesse]

I did something scary and dumb early. It's raining and wanted to test how slippery the thick painted line was on a turning lame, answer is very. Downshifting locked up the back for a split second with rear on the paint. Very scary, I asked for it but wasntt expecting it to be that much like ice. thankfully I didn't wash out or anything just very much lost control for a brief scary moment lol

Anyways i was wondering actually if you knew about the hoes that goes to into the airbox from the "air injection system". Will that thing work with just a little filter on the hose? Planning on getting rid of the box but am going to make something a bit better than pods straight on the carbs. Could just get rid of the air injection system thing, but I think it's the reason lots pops out the back under engine braking and I like that part a lot. Going to look around online for answers

[bikerbill]

Yes, a filter of some sort will allow the system to still work. I went as far as to disable the system by removing the hoses and plugging the transfer passages inside the valve cover. I then covered the hose connectors on the valve cover with a rubber cap.

[Triangles]

To my knowledge there's no risk of damage just leaving that hose open to the air. The worst that happens is something gets sucked in and plugs it up. On second thought, something could theoretically get stuck in the reed valves causing exhaust to come out through the system which is not something you would want. One of those cheap breather filters would probably be ideal if you don't want to delete the system.

The inner exhaust pipes are already a weak link on these bikes so I gutted and removed the system on mine. I don't remember what I used to plug the hole in the air box but while I had the valve cover off for a valve adjustment I tapped the passageway that goes down to the exhaust and plugged it with some set screws then filled it in with JB weld. Yes I know completely overkill and likely not necessary. I just wanted to be absolutely certain I didn't have exhaust coming out of there and I just had the JB weld sitting around. I then fabricated block off plates from some scrap aluminum plate. removed the reed valves and slapped the cover plates on. Now it's a lot less hassle when I go to do a valve adjustment. The cover plates are more or less cosmetic as the set screw/JB weld seal the important part.

Another way to deal with this that would also effectively disable it would be to simply connect a hose from one connector on the valve cover over to the other one. At least that way it would be easy to go back to factory if desired.